Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “Weekend Projects – TV-Go-Sleep Universal TV Timer”.
Hi, I’m Ken den Meade editorial director with make Tom Rodgers is a physics, teacher and robotics coach from Virginia Beach, who spends a lot of time traveling by car frustrated, with the lack of functionality of hotel and motel TVs. Tom created a universal TV, sleep timer. That turns any TV off after a programmable delay. No sleep, timer functionality on that hotel TV, no problem. The timer is built around an Arduino microcontroller. That’S been loaded with an open-sourced tv-b-gone library with a few extra lines of code. A simple push button is used to set the delay time, which is shown on a seven segment display when the timer expires.
The Arduino uses infrared LEDs to transmit all the TV off codes. It knows, and the TV shuts down it’s a relatively simple build that you can complete in an afternoon by using these parts and these tools to begin break off three blocks of mail header, pins and install them in the headers on the Arduino use. A block of seven in pins 8 through 13 and the adjacent round pin a 5 pin block in pins 2 through 6 and a 4 pin block in pins 5 volt ground ground and voltage in fit the perf board over the header pins with its bottom facing The Arduino mark the board and then trim it so that it’s a little smaller than the Arduino beneath it, which will allow it to fit inside the enclosure. The circuit is built on the board, according to the schematic diagram, make sure to remove the headers from the Arduino to avoid heat damage, while soldering connections will be made on both sides of the PCB and due to the size and proximity of the connections, care should Be taken to avoid shorts, insert the display in the center of the circuit board and then connect the header pin for the Arduino ground directly to the display, as shown on the circuit diagram using hookup wire next solder, a 560 ohm resistor to each of the headers. That correspond to the Arduino spins 4, through 13 emitting pins 7 and 11 connect each of these resistors to its proper pin on the display. Referring to the circuit diagram on the project page, these connections will be easier to make by running them, underneath the display being careful to avoid shorts connect, the header for pin 3 on the Arduino to the 33 ohm resistor and then to a piece of wire which Will feed the infrared LEDs? The header for pin 2 is connected to a 10 kiloohm resistor, which is then connected to an open ground. Pin on the other side of the board via a cupped wire pin. 2 is also soldered to a piece of hookup wire which will connect it to the push-button next solder, the positive end of the battery connector to the header for the Arduino voltage input. This will supply voltage to the Arduino, then cut and strip a piece of hookup, wire and solder it to the header for the Arduino is 5 volt.
Pin. This wire will eventually connect to the other side of the push-button cut and strip a final piece of wire and solder it to the header for the remaining ground, pin drill three holes in one end of the enclosure and insert the three infrared LEDs Y 3 LEDs. The LED lenses focus the infrared light into a fairly a beam, so adding more of them increases the spread of the beams. Don’T make them perfectly parallel. Let the lenses point in slightly different directions: drip some hot glue on the backs of the LEDs to hold them in place and then solder them together in series and on to cathode. The anode is the longer lead in the opposite side of the enclosure, drill, a hole for the power switch and then install it mark holes for the push-button switch and the 7-segment display on the lid of the enclosure using masking tape makes it easier to see pencil Lines and helps keep the surface protected during cutting the Arduino just barely fits within the enclosure, so check the alignment carefully before cutting apply, foam tape to the underside of the lid and then insert the display through the rectangular hole and attach the board to the enclosure. Lid hot glue can be used later after the device is tested and working properly then install the push-button solder. The leads from the circuit board to the switches and LEDs, as shown in the circuit diagram. In addition to connecting to the Arduino ground pin the power switch is also the ground for the LEDs.
Then hot glue. The battery clip to the bottom of the case install the Arduino on the header pins, making sure that it’s properly aligned use the USB cable to connect the Arduino to a computer, download the universal sleep, timer Arduino code and the TV begun for Arduino library. From the links on the project page open the files in the arduino, ide and upload them to the device disconnect the USB cable, install the 9-volt battery in the enclosure and screw the lid in place.
When you turn on the power switch, the decimal point will flash a few times and then the display will read 9. This corresponds to a sleep delay of about 90 minutes. Each time the button is pushed. The sleep delay is shortened by 10 minutes. If you press and hold the button, the universal sleep timer goes into test mode and it will begin sending all of its off cones place. The device where you plan to leave it for the night and run the test to verify that the TV turns off. If the TV is still on when the test is finished, try realigning the device or moving it closer to the TV.
If the TV turns itself back on during the test, that means it’s responding to two different codes run the test again, but this time quickly hit the button after the TV turns off, but before it turns back on, the device will remember this point in the test And now we’ll know when to stop running codes to avoid turning the tv back on. If the TV still won’t power off, you may need to update your TV, begone library, check the project page for more troubleshooting information and links to updated libraries. Now you can set your universal TV sleep timer to the countdown time you want and rest assured that you and the TV will both get some sleep. .