The Custom Water-Cooled Thanos PC Build – Part 1

The Custom Water-Cooled Thanos PC Build - Part 1

Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “The Custom Water-Cooled Thanos PC Build – Part 1”.
What time you guys, I’m from Texas, welcome back to another build on channel, so this time we’re doing a full custom, water-cooled PC and I’m actually really excited, because this time I get to keep the PC. I’M not gon na take out the parts and store them on the shelves in the back. The main purpose of this PC is for editing with some light casual gaming on the side. I don’t really have a PC here at the office.

The only thing I use right now is the LG Graham to kind of answer emails and some other work-related stuff, but I want to build a PC where I can keep here at the office and game on, but mostly edit videos on as well. That’S actually the main reason why I’m going with X 570 once again to take advantage of PCI Gen 4 and, as you guys saw in the black and gold build, I was getting ridiculous, read and write speeds. So I went ahead and stole the m2 SSD from that, build that I’m gon na put it in this one.

I want this PC to increase the efficiency in my workflow by a noticeable amount being a business owner. Time is the most valuable thing that you can’t get back. So if I can shave off a few seconds or a few minutes off of each project over the next several years, that’s gon na come back as additional revenue. Think of it. This way, the sooner I finish a project the sooner I can start the next project and the more videos that can produce the more money I can make. So the point of this build – I guess, in a nutshell, is to make more money.

In all seriousness, though, the point of this build is to increase my efficiency in productivity and, of course, the casual gaming on the side I’ll be doing some modding on the case. As you guys can see, the color scheme of the build is black and purple. I did pick up some cables from Cale mod – I’m not gon na waste, my time going through all the parts, because I will be talking about them as I build so with that said, let’s get started I’ll.

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My short answer to you guys is I’m an impatient bastard in all seriousness. I kind of wanted to do this build right now and I’m still gon na. Do it 39 50 X, build with a processor releases so hold on to your horses, and I think we have an issue here. Actually, oh geez, we have bent pins okay. That is not good.

It was like some of the pins on the edges are bent and I’m never taking this out of the packaging so curious to see how it got bent like this. I don’t have anything else other than a knife to fix these pins. Unfortunately, I wish I had a razor blade, but let’s see if I can do it this way, let’s see if this works, it’s it’s, I don’t that fixes it, but we’ll we’ll test it out. So now I’m forced to put the stock cooler on here. So I can test out the component. All right should be plenty, let’s spread those cheeks, nice and even whatever this will do for now. All right moment of truth, let’s boot it up Wow a little fingerprints on there come on.

Please please, please, please, please work! Bios has been reset, ladies and gentlemen, it is a live performing operations and it was a success. I am happy with the results. All right, let’s continue, so let that be a lesson to you guys out there. If you ever had a bent pin, it is not over, you can always fix that, so just grab a razor blade or something really thin and gently slide it between the pins and straighten it up. It’S very easy to do just make sure you guys aren’t applying a lot of pressure.

Otherwise you can bend it too much and then it will snap off so for round. We are going with 32 gigs of the Dominator, Platinum or RGB sticks. These are running at 3200 megahertz with the cast latency of 16.

This is gon na be more than plenty to do what I need to do. Of course, I can’t forget about the MP 600. This is pretty much the MVP of this entire build. This is gon na help me load my applications so much faster.

I don’t know if you guys ever edited over a 10 minute video with 4k files, what effects and transitions and all that jazz, but it takes a while to load those projects up every time. So this is gon na cut that time by a lot, so the CPU block already comes with the Intel bracket on, but unfortunately I would have to swap this out. I actually want to paint this, so maybe I should paint all the parts now that way by the time I come back tomorrow, everything will be dry all right off.

You go all right, so, unfortunately, this is the closest I can find for my local Lowe’s we’re using the rust-oleum to times paint and primer. I mean it’s pretty close. It’S not that far off we’ll see what it looks like once it’s painted, so we’re painting a few parts from the case we’re doing the dust filters, the PCI brackets and, of course, you’ve got to do the thumbscrews all right. So let this dry for about 20 minutes and I’ll come back and do a second coat alright. So in order to paint the thumbscrews easily, I basically always keep the packaging from the PC cases that I get.

So this is like a piece of styrofoam packaging and what I do is I insert the thumb screws inside so that way the cap is showing only which is basically the only part I need the paint. So it’s going to keep it nice and still, and then I can rotate it [ Applause ] all right, so I thought we can put on the GPU block, while they’re waiting for the paint to dry. So let’s take care of that.

The Custom Water-Cooled Thanos PC Build - Part 1

That is actually not a bad looking block all right so now that all the screws are off, we’re gon na have to peel off the PCB slowly. Just like that. So the cool thing about the Corsair GPU block is that not only is a thermal paste pre-applied, but also the thermal pads, so all have to do is just place it on there, nice all right and then just put the backplate on like this wow. This is honestly the easiest GPU block assembly – I’ve ever done. You know what I just decided.

I’M painting this purple, I don’t like the silver over here. There we go yeah. This has to go for sure. Do morrow, alright guys.

So that’s the next day. Let’S take a closer look at the paint job for the radiators kill this off. Oh, my lord, that looks amazing. I love that glossy finish on there and you can still kind of see the courser logo yeah baby. That is what I’m talking about. Oh, I love that gloss finish.

The Custom Water-Cooled Thanos PC Build - Part 1

This also turn that perfectly and of course, can’t forget about the GPU mounting brackets and finally, the mesh filter, beautiful both sides are painted. You know now that I’m looking at it, the color, doesn’t seem that much off after the paint job, it’s pretty close. Actually on camera I mean once everything’s inside the PC, with the lights on and stuff.

I don’t I’m pretty sure it’s not gon na. Be that noticeable all right? Let’S continue with the build, let’s put on the newly painted CPU block bracket on here. So oh looks nice.

The Custom Water-Cooled Thanos PC Build - Part 1

Okay, also quick advice to coarser. If you guys are watching, don’t put your logo upside down. If the cable is going upwards, I mean in reality it should be like this, but why would you have the cable going towards the bottom when all the connectors are on the top? So I guess we just have to route the cable underneath like that towards the bottom, underneath this heatsink and towards the top. So it’s nice and hittin it.

I have. You managed to paint the caps last. Second, all right. So all the parts that need to be painted have been painted and they’ve dried, so we can finally put together the PC and finish it up today, but check this out guys. This came in yesterday. This is a distribution plate or additional plate from fantex. It’S mostly for aesthetic reasons, this basically acts as a second reservoir, and this is gon na get mounted on the back of the case. So instead of the 120 millimeter fan over here, I’m gon na be mounting this digital plate on the back here. Unfortunately, this doesn’t work with all cases you have to have at least a full tower to a super tower and the rear mounting hole has to support a 140 millimeter fan, because this is a 140 millimeter additional plate. So the mounting holes have to align with a 140 millimeter fan. Oh, this is a perfect fit.

Oh No, why aren’t the holes aligning? This makes literally? No sense, you guys look the holes on the top align perfectly, but the holes in the bottom are nowhere to be found what the heck. Why, though, it’s supposed to be compatible with 140 millimeter mounting holes? Are you serious right now? Well, there’s only one thing not to do I’m sorry. I have to do this, but you leave me. No choice also guys a quick reminder to download world of tanks using my link below and use the code tank tastic. You are not only helping support the channel, but you get awesome perks as well, like @ e, 127 tank 500 gold and 7 days of premium access thanks for watching.

As always guys and i’ll see you in the next one. .