Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “How to Make Shazam Cape Holders Final w/The Broken Nerd”.
Hey everyone, my name is daryl and i’m back with another video. Today, i’m going to be making the cape holders that we’ve seen on shazam’s costume for the new movie that’s coming out. I must start off by saying that i really like the costume. It’S more of a a brighter tone than most of dc’s movies that have been out. I like the way that the chess emblem lights up and i also like the way the van braces light up as well. I’M modeling the van braces as well, don’t kind of still in the process of getting that right. So that may be another video down the road, but i wanted to go ahead and share this build with you guys. It was very straightforward and i took a little different process than just 3d printing, finish finishing it and then presenting it to you guys. So i kind of went a different route in terms of finishing and we’ll get to that later on in the video.
So with that being said, let’s jump right into the build, so i started off by modeling this in cinema 4d and i’m going to walk you through some of the process that i took to actually model this all right. So here’s cinema 4d and i have the project open, i’m just going to walk through some of the things that i used to make this holder. So i started off with the cylinder and used a subdivision surface tool to make it smooth. So, as you can see without it on it’s a very hard surface, but once it’s on, you have a nice smooth brown surface.
I also utilized the cloner tool with a bunch of spares and cloned those and put those along the edge of the cylinder. As you can see here and that just created a extra bit of detail – and i also did that with a design that i utilized the spline tool to make and added a bit of detail around the inner part of the cylinder um – i used this tiger head. I bought this off of cg trader. You can find it on cd trader and i utilized this head.
Just flattened it a bit so that it can sit uh flush to the cylinder. I just mend everything together and you’ll, see once i open it up and just added a bit of detail along the edge here and then did some minor uh extrus on the outside of the coin. Just to add some more detail and just added a little bit more depth to the uh holder, so for this print i opted to print it on an sla printer and i’ll. Tell you about that in a minute.
The reason why i didn’t do the traditional printers, because i knew i would have lost detail during the finishing and post-processing process. So i just recently got an sla printer from mad hackers and it is the piapoli moy omoi. I believe i’m hoping i’m pronouncing that right, but anyway, it’s an absolutely amazing. Resin printer um been using it for about two to three weeks now: um it uses uv resin and once you print it, you have to take it out clean it and then cure it. So i’m actually going to walk you through the process of um setting it up for that print and then actually printing it and then the clean up process. So here is the model in the slicing program, which is cura, and i went ahead and added tree supports to the model. These are the kind of supports that are needed for printing with an sla printer and it prints upside down. So here is a quick time lapse of the printing process: uh it prints upside down and i believe the print took about two hours or more. I think it was about almost three hours to print took, and here it is so i did two versions. This is version one, and then this is version two and they both came out fantastic.
So once the print is done, you have to clean them, so i’m cleaning it in 91 isoprope alcohol and then i’m gon na wash that off with some soapy water and then it needs to sit and cure. So once everything is clean, i trimmed off all the supports – and i rested in this container and for it to cure and i’d do that by using a uv light. So it’s very important that you clean up after utilizing the tools you don’t want any of this resin laying around or you don’t want it contaminating other places.
So i use 91 alcohol to clean off everything, clean up all the tools and wipe down the surface areas. The cleanup on these were very, very minimal. All i had to do was sand just a little bit and apply some primer to them and they were good to go.
So here are the results, and i couldn’t be more happy with the results from this printer. So for this i wanted to do something different instead of just having a regular 3d printed sla resin coin um. So i opted to mold and cast this and i’m going to walk you through that process of how i went about molding and casting, and i even did a cold cast to see how that would come out, and these are the results that i got so i Started off by using some cardboard that i had laying around to cut out a box so that it can hold the silicone to make a mold out of, and i just went about the process of gluing it and hot gluing. The inside.
To make sure that there were no holes so that when i do pour the silicone in that it does not leak out from the sides – and i just made sure everything was secure so here it is all done so now i am getting ready to mix up Some silicone so that i can pour onto our mold pieces. So this way we can um have a silicone mold and i’m just mixing that up really well and making sure that everything is mixed together and i don’t have a vacuum chamber. So i poured really slow from a really high altitude to reduce any air bubbles and it worked out just fine so 24 hours later it was ready to be demolded and everything had cured and set. So i’m removing the outer box and removing the master modes and had a bit of flashing around the edges, and i just used a razor to cut those. So now, i’m mixing up some smooth on smooth cast 300 and adding some black pigment and i’ll mix.
This up really well and do the pouring and i did a pour – and these are the first results of the first cast from the mold, and here are the results that i have. I think they came out pretty well, so here’s the cast, the one prep for molding and then the resin and then here is the cast of the first coin and as you can see, some silicone came out after i pulled it from the mold and then that Was the prepped one and i think i’m gon na go with this one? I really like this one and here they are – and i actually painted one just for a test to see how it would come out. So now it’s time to cold cast – and here i am pouring in some brass metal powder and i’m just going to dust the mold with this and shake out the excess here.
I am mixing up some more smooth cast 300 resin and i am going to utilize. The rest of the brass powder and add that to the resin and make sure everything is mixed up really well and go ahead and do a pour and about 15 minutes later they were ready to be demolded and they came out pretty well so here i’m using Some steel wool, so that i can bring out the shine of the metal powder and i just go all around the surface of the holder. And now i’m going to use some metal polish to polish up the holder and the results are pretty nice.
And now i’m just applying some black acrylic paint to the surface of the holder, and then i will wipe that clean so that i can get a weathered look and all that will sit in the detail and i think it came out pretty well. So here are all the holders that i made this one is the resin one that is straight off the printer, and here is the one that we prepped for molding, and this is the cold cast that we weathered with some black acrylic. And then this is a cold cast, but it doesn’t have any weathering and it still came out very nice and the last one here is the one that was painted with krylon foil gold and weathered as well. But this one is my favorite one, which is the cold cast with the weathering alright, so here they are um. So i have all three and to be quite honest to you, i’m pleased how they came out.
I’M gon na be playing with uh molding and casting these some more to see if i can get some different results, but overall i am pleased how they came out now in terms of the one that i painted um. I actually like the way it came out. It’S a little bit of a more of a copper tone. I used a little bit of antique gold.
I believe rubbing buff, to highlight some of the areas and i think this one came out good as well, but i do like the cold cast one as well. So i hope you guys, like the video once again, i thank make for hosting this video and allowing me to share my content with you guys, if you guys want to check out more of what i do and some of the videos i’ve made you can head Over to my channel, the broken nerd, and if you want to keep up to date with anything that i’m working on or any projects that i’m currently doing, you can follow me on twitter at thebrokener83, and you can follow me on instagram at thebrokernerd83. Thank you guys.
So much for tuning in peace and love – god bless you .