Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “Hackintosh Pro Project! [Part 3: The Build]”.
Hey what is up guys, I’m Kay PhD here and welcome to the hackintosh pro project? Part three, alright! So for those of you who are new to this project boom, there are parts one and two annotated, or there are the first two links in the description below the like button on this video. But basically, in those two videos we go over basically the gist of the hackintosh Pro project, and then we assemble all of the parts of the hackintosh Pro project. This is the part where we’re going to actually build it together and make any computer. Now. You might see behind me, that’s actually already put together but you’re about to watch the video of me putting all the parts together to hopefully give you a better idea of why I chose the parts, but I just want to say if you do want to behind-the-scenes.
Look at how this is going already, you can follow me on Twitter, which is where I’ve been posting some behind the scenes pictures for on Google. So again, those two links are also below the like button and that’s where we get these things. Basically, the point of this part of the build is to show you guys why I chose certain parts. For example, I chose the H ATI as cooler. A lot of people were yelling at me. You should have chosen H, 100. I, but you know, with this combination of a motherboard and a case, it would have been very difficult to fit the H 100. I in so I chose the H JD.
I basically, the whole point is to show you that this is being built now and then we’re going to go ahead and get to the fun stuff so anyway enjoy, and this is me building the hackintosh pro. So, interestingly enough, the only tool we’re going to need to fit all these parts together into a fully functioning computer. Dual booting operating systems and becoming a beast of a rig for 2013 is a screwdriver.
Well, two screwdrivers! Actually one is larger for the more heavy-duty stuff. So we’ll start with the empty fractal r4 case and a fractal thousand watt power supply. Now you can see it is semi modular there’s some cables in it already, and I think I said it was fully modular in the other video.
But basically what I’m immediately beginning here by putting it in this case is cable management. Good air flow is important to any build and, of course, my OCD kicks in here and wants this thing to be as neat as possible. So we’re going to take full advantage of the room behind the motherboard tray to tuck those cables back and really give the parts room to breathe. Fractals power supply also comes with a ton of power cables for all our peripherals, which is nice and even cable ties to help us out anyway. Next up is the motherboard, the asus saber, 2x 79 military-grade socket 2011 motherboard. This thing is quite a beast, and the board also comes with a bunch of accessories, so once we get the board out of the box, you’ll see it comes with accessories like the back IO shield, which is always important.
A small fan that is optional to install, and then you also get, of course, all of your SATA cables and it comes with six, the white-tipped ones. Would you get four of our the full-speed SATA 6 gigabits per second SATA cable? So that’s what I’ll be using for the SSDs when we do those later and of course, like any other motherboard, you get some miscellaneous screws and adapters and even an sli bridge, and you also get a sticker, which is neat. I don’t know if we going to put that on your case or not, but you do get a sticker and, most importantly, you also get some actual useful paperwork here. Every motherboard is different, so I use the diagrams and instructions in this paperwork to figure out which Ram slops to use which cables go where etc. So, first things. First, you install the i/o shield in the back of the case it just snaps on the back of the fractal r4.
Just like it should it’s pretty durable. So don’t worry about bending it. You can pretty much snap right in place and we use that to guide the motherboard into the case. When we do that later, then I actually pause for a bit just to take a look around this motherboard.
I took it out of the wrapping and it is seriously a work of art if you check this thing out, it is just a beautiful piece of engineering in such a small space. It’S also quite heavy for the way it looks and for the size, but it is just covered in chips and dims and heat sinks in silicon everywhere. I know it’s not the prettiest color scheme in the world, not everyone likes the green, but then again you know how often do you peek into your computer and stare at the motherboard? Not very often, but you know, for those of you want to match colors. You might want to look elsewhere, but yes, so we can take the stickers off this rim and we’re basically left with a naked motherboard ready for the CPU. So that’s what we’ll break out next! This is it.
This is the Intel Core. I7: 3930k 6 core cpu running at 3.2 gigahertz stock, with an unlocked multiplier for easy overclocking. This thing is going to be great. Like I mentioned in the last video. This build is going to be a workhorse of a video, editing and rendering machine. So that’s very CPU heavy tasks. So it’s why I chose this guy as the brains of the build.
Now it is a 2011 socket. So this is catch kind of a big CPU, it’s kind of like having your own personal Xeon processor, and when you take it out the box, you can see all the golden pins on the back, but be careful when handling this. It is easily the most expensive part per square inch of this whole machine, but again just it’s really fun to admire these parts. So now comes one of the more fun parts installing the CPU onto the motherboard.
If you’ve seen the instructional videos, you already know how to do this, you don’t have to touch the top or bottom of the CPU. In fact, you don’t want to you just want to lay it to rest right on top of the pins, without inserting any pressure then close it up and that’s it CPU installed. You might feel like you’re putting a ton of pressure on the clamps. You might feel like you’re going to snap them in half or something, but that’s normal once you close them.
These are tough, clamps, tough board, tough stuff. The CPU is done now there are some golden screws that came with this case. These are the motherboard standoffs that you need to install these into the ATX holes of the case. The motherboard will then rest on top of these in order to separate it from the metal of the actual case, and then we get more screws to screw the board into place on top of these standoffs so that it’s held snug next, we’ll break out the RAM.
This is 32 gigs of Corsair Vengeance, Ram running at 1600, megahertz, it’s enough ram to give Adobe Premiere and After Effects plenty of room to breathe, which is the basic point of this. But this board also actually has eight Ram slots, and this is only four sticks of RAM. Each eight gigabyte sticks. So if I ever need to upgrade to 64 gigabytes of ram in the future, I have four slots open and I can add four more: a gigabyte ram dims and be at 64 gigs of ram. So this motherboards paperwork of course shows us the best place to install quad channel memory with four dims, which is what we’re doing here and the RAM installation is probably the simplest part. You might even skip this part. You just pull back the plastic tabs on the dims that you want to use and seat. The memory sticks into place very simple as long as you install them in the right place.
I’M sure a lot of you guys have already either done this before or have seen it done before. Next up is the CPU cooler, the Corsair H ATI. Now, like I mentioned, I picked the H ATI over the H 100 because we’re going for a completely silent, build and the combination of the motherboards heat sinks and this case don’t really leave any room for a dual fan: radiator in the top. So we’re going with a single radiator, closed-loop water cooling solution for our soon to be overclocked pee-yew inside the box. Of course, you get the pump and the reservoir, which is the main unit, but you also get a bunch of mounting gear for both Intel and AMD processors. You just have to pick the right one for your build as well as two corsair fans, which turned out to be quite loud, so I later replace them with Noctua fans and I’ll show those in a later video. Here’S a closer look at the H, ATI radiator. This is what’s going to be going in the back of the case and here’s the pump which sits right on the CPU and it actually lights up different colors when it’s on now for the installation, there was already a fractal hundred 40 millimeter fan in the back Of the case, so I removed this and instead added it to the dual radiator panel on the front, which means we now have two large fans in the front of the case and then we’ll use the fan for the courser h adi in the back. So that really directs air flow straight from the front to the back of the case, the radiator was then attached to the back fan, which again I replaced with a much nicer nock to a fan that I’ll show later. So when you flip the case around you’ll, see a pretty large sized cutout behind the motherboard tray. This is where you grab the LGA 2011 bracket and mount it behind the motherboard and then that let me attach the CPU cooler to the CPU in the front inside the case, so for cooling, H, Adi mission, accomplished next thing and with a very last large part. Anyway, is a graphics card, our gigabyte, geforce gtx 670 overclocked edition with two gigabytes of video RAM and 1344 cuda cores, which Adobe programs love so much.
This is another one of those parts like the motherboard that is really complex and detailed and almost beautiful in a way that you can actually see from the outside, which I thought was cool. But basically, you can see the triple fan, silent, cooling solution here that keeps it so quiet installation of a PCI card is, of course, very simple. You just drop the place holders out of the case and snap the video card into the PCI slot that you want to use. In my case, it’s the very first one at the top of the motherboard. Then you can put the screws back in just to hold up the video cards, wait since it actually would kind of strain the motherboard without any of the support from the screws. So we are almost done here. All the biggest parts are now in the case. The last thing we have left to tackle are air solid-state drives and I’ve always loved unboxing. These SSDs, always just so neat and simple.
No real and struck is necessary. They come with stickers, they’re, just awesome and ocz really knows what they’re doing with these SSDs. I use them in the fastest Mac Mini in the world project.
These are vertex fours now so they’re even better have better controllers for larger data transfers, which is better for video editing, and if I had a nickel for every time someone told me these are going to fail. I’D probably be a millionaire by now, but trust me if these ever fail me or even stop working or even hiccup. I will be the first to let you know, but I’ve never had any problems in the fastness Mac Mini in the world.
So if you want to watch that series that link will be right down below the like button on this video, but as you can see, the fractal are four handles these SSDs quite nicely and they all go in the bottom right next to a fan. So they’ll have cool air blowing over them, just a really neat design, especially if you want to add more hard drives with media storage in the future. So now that every part is inside the case, this is what it looks like with no power or data cables.
Everything is totally naked and bam. That is what it looks like when I connect all the cables power to the motherboard, graphics cards, SSDs fans and everything, etc. Everything is now connected and I think, with my pretty amateur cable management, it turned out pretty clean. You can see an even better view here of the top of the case where there is just enough room for everything I love this case. It has the noise dampening material inside of it, and the power supply, and the fans I have in here are also now super quiet. The graphics card and its extra fan allow them to spin at a lower rpm, so they’re, also very quiet, and the SSD only solution is completely silent, of course, with no moving parts. I can tell you from experience you can’t tell by listening whether this machine is on or not it’s that good and overall there’s still room for expansion too. So there’s extra PCI slots open here at the bottom half of the motherboard. So you can add another graphics card later and there’s four extra Ram slots open up on the top of the motherboard. So this is a huge reason to choose a hackintosh over a mac pro for this type of flexibility, but that’s a whole other video so feel free to leave a comment.
If you want to see a dedicated video on the Mac Pro versus hackintosh, but either way, I think my favorite part of this build is definitely the case. I’M just a huge fan of the black and white color scheme, sort of an inverted stormtrooper. Look that matches the rest of my setup, especially the front of it. We’Ve got a matte black, look to it and you can open up the magnetically held front to reveal a fan controller, which is actually pretty convenient with three different voltages.
So I can turn it up. While we run during a video and the front do 140 millimeter white fans that come with the case, it’s just really nice overall, a real keeper here and even those side. Panel doors are particularly heavy with the sound dampening material on the inside, but this is it. The build is officially complete and now it’s time to power it up and in the next article we’re going to make it a hackintosh Pro thanks for watching be sure to subscribe, to see the next one and stay tuned. You .