Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “Molten Modular 05 – Installing the Eurorack case and power supply”.
Hello, I’m Robin Vincent and welcome back to Moulton modular. This is just a quick video to have a look at installing the power supply into the case. Here is the case. This is the mode hundred for HP case that I’ve opted for working outward on the back. There is something about having that, which I find awesome, but by the by it’s, a well-made feels pretty rugged and metal case.
It has sliding that is that important. Who knows it has no other holes or anything in the case at all, for anything to come out of so there’s no sneaky getting around the back or routing any cables in and out that way, no the power supply has to be external, using a module like This this is the 4ms ro power 40. Now, when I originally made my video about cases, I talked about the tip-top micro Zeus, power supply, which I was going to use, but then through various bits of advice and other people talking to they just pushed me up to the four ms one. They suggested that it was more stable, but it ran cooler, not quite so hot and probably the best feature is this extra socket here. This is useful because you can daisy chain to another power module in another row. If you want to add a second row to your system, you don’t need to have a whole nother, individual power supply going to the wall. You can use the same power brick going into the one for ms module, which can then daisy chain with a little cable to your next row and so on, and that’s extraordinarily useful, if, like me, you’re hoping to expand to another row at some point, I’ve gone For the 40, rather than the 30, the slightly less powerful one really because this is the only one that Red Dog had in stock. The 30 would be plenty for this size of rack, but the 40 is a bit more than I need, but that’s fine.
I always saying that you need a bigger power supply. If we look on the back, we can see where the flying bus cables plug in to these little sockets here, and this is a flying bust, cable. Now it has a red line on it, which is very important that has to go in the right orientation with the 4ms.
This means it has to be pointing down. Thankfully, the flying bus cables also have this little knob on the top here, and this has a corresponding sort of gap here on the socket. So I can never put them in their own way around, but it’s worth always checking which way around things have to go and where the red line needs to be towards, and with these it needs to be towards the bottom.
So I can plug that in there and there’s two for lots of modules, and I can click that one in alongside the red line is at the bottom, which is where it needs to be. Now. If I lay these out, I can see I’ve got. My sock is the right way round on that one and the sock is completely up slow down on that one.
So what I’ll do is I’m going to take that out turn it around plug? In the other end crisis averted now, they recommend that you do a little bit of cable folding exercise to get it to running, for the two rows like that, which is very neat now in all the modular grid, so the mock-ups I’ve done of this unit. I’Ve always got the power supply over here. However, it’s sort of the orientation of these cables the way that they sort of would Bend and push up against that side. Just means that this really needs to go over here. It’S ruined the entire look of my proposed rack, but I’m just going to have to cope with it and get the hang of it and that’s alright.
So what I need to do is screw it into some of these here. Flying that things to being the overly enthusiastic person, I am, I bought some of these, the facto Nellie’s which are kind of posh eurorack screws, because I don’t want to you know, put any nasty screw marks any of my modules. I want to keep it as neat and lovely as possible and these little feathers that the washers can really help with that and I’m going to be taking modules in and out quite a bit.
So I figured that that might be a good thing. So, let’s see, if I can get this to work, I need one of those screw that one in now this is genuinely the first time I have ever put a module into a eurorack case. It’S quite exciting, even though it’s only the power supply.
It is that simple: do that slightly? You need bit right down this end, tighten it up and there she is look at that. This is now ready for a whole bunch of modules. Now the four ms doesn’t come with a wall wart or power, brick to supply.
The actual power – and this is one of the areas of confusion I found when I was researching power supplies as to what you actually plug into these things. But it turns out that the four ms takes more or less a sort of a universal laptop supply and I’ve got dozens of those knocking around according to the manual here just provided that it’s 15 volts or 20 volts DC and has a minimum of 30 watts. Output – that’s pretty much all you need so so I have one here: called power: call power, cool Universal AC, adapter running at 65 watts and has an output of 15 volts 220 volts. So I’m going to give that a go Turner right. This sticking in here with a bit of luck when I flick the switch. I won’t electrocute myself there you go.
That’S nice. I’Ve got a light on 5 volts and 2 about their monstro, but i think thats a go. So they are my most case.
Power supply plugged in flying bus cables, already four modules awesome now. The other thing i was going to do is to incorporate it with my mother 32. Now, normally speaking, you would take this out of its case and drop it into here, but i don’t want it to take up that much room.
So my plan is at some point to get to roads, which will then incorporate them out of 32. But until that point i want them to be used together and perhaps rather than having those two separate units, i’m going to use the two tier brackets that you can get for the mode and put it. I think like that, with that work, what you think well, maybe the other one now i can’t do it this way around, because there’d be no side on that kneel just might fall down so some kind of plan to stick it like that has got to be Interesting, let’s try it anyway: okay, let’s try it. So I have my brackets okay.
So essentially what you do is use these washers to mount it on the side of the case like so, and there you have a rather nice a rather natty. There are angle into which that fits in perfectly so there you have it my special sort of custom one-and-a-half tier Moog rack, and I have a little bit of room over here for some extras and the zero coast right down here now. This isn’t completely rigid yet because I’m waiting for a particular piece to come in from mode which is the 104 HP equivalent of this, which is just a little brace.
That goes at the back, because when you put the two tiers on the 60 HP, then this goes at the back in order to keep it that a little bit rigid. So it doesn’t do this little bit of moving at the back. I mean along one of those and that’s on its way to me at some point I believe, which should sort them out a little bit, but as it is, it’s still pretty good. So I’m ready to go. I’M very stick in my first Crocker modules and my next article is all about that: choosing that first 104 HP of modules, those first modules to take that step into your rack.
What are you going to buy? What are you going to get? How do you do that? How do you break down these hundreds and hundreds of available awesome, wonderful modules? How do you break it down into just a single skill like this? Well I’ll tell you is one of the hardest things one of the hardest processes. I’Ve ever been through, and I’m right in the middle of writing all that up I’ll, be making a video on it very shortly so check that out and in the meantime go and make some tunes. .