Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “Maker Hangar: Episode 8 – Electric Parts”.
Hello and welcome to maker hanger, my name is Lukas weekly and today we’re going to be talking about the parts we’re going to be using in the maker trainer. I’Ll also show you how to solder all the connectors on and how to connect all the parts together. So, let’s get started. The first part is the prop like we talked about before the prompt is the most important part of the plane, because all the other parts are based off of it. I chose a 6×4 prop.
I chose this for a number of reasons, so let me explain: a small prop will have low torque roll. This will mean one less thing that you’ll have to worry about one flying also because the prop is small. It can be put in the back pushing the plane along, which means, if you get into a crash than the motor and proper save. However, you might be asking yourself if it’s hard to take off because of the lack of static thrust and yeah.
It can be a bit tricky, but I’ll help you get over, that for the motor we’re going to use an 1800 kV 28 by 36 brushless motor, and this is going to supply plenty of power and allow you to expand by putting more things onto the plane And still having it fly with the six by four prop, the plane will draw about 15 to 20 amps. So I chose a 30 amp esc. This is going to supply plenty of power for the motor. It’S also going to run very cool, so you won’t have to worry too much about heating inside your plane. It also has a B EC, of course, and it’ll be able to power four servos. The battery we’re going to use is a 2200 milliamp power. 30 C 3s lipo pack, and this will supply plenty of power for long flights, and it also is heavy enough to properly balance out the plane. The receiver is, of course, an orange receiver, which goes with the orange t6 transmitter like we talked about before. Well, use nine gram, digital nylon, geared servos, these have plenty of torque for their size and we’ll be able to easily push and pull the control surfaces on this plane for soldering. The ESC is the only component that needs connectors. This is because everyone has their own favorite connectors, so companies that make you C’s don’t put on connectors, so you can put them on yourself. The three wires going to the motor will get female 3.5 millimeter gold bullet connectors and on the battery side, we’ll put a male XD, 60 plug, which is the type of connector that comes on the twenty two hundred million battery from hobby king.
Let’S get soldering, ok! So here are the parts you’re first going to need to start soldering you’re going to need your heat shrink, some scissors to cut it and then a lighter to shrink it. You can also use a heat gun with lighters. Are the easiest? You need some helping hands for holding parts – some solder, of course, and your soldering station now I’m using my HECO or hakko fx-888 sabesp for the money at $ 80. But of course you can always get the $ 15 ones from RadioShack and just be sure to get a chiseled tip on it.
This will have a lot of surface area for the parts that we’re going to soldering on today. Now, you’re also going to want safety, glasses safety first and soldering is no different for the parts you’re going to need. Your es see the three female bullet connectors, as well as the male xt60 plugs. Now. This is the one with the prongs on the inside. This is the male. The one that goes on the battery is the female one tip that you can learn is that if something is giving power, it gets a female connector, and if something is taking power from something else, it gets a male connector. Okay, we’re going to be starting with three wires going to the motor these give the female bullet connectors.
So here’s what they look like now, there’s a deep end, do them and then there’s a shallower end that the shallower end is the cup that we solder into so we’re going to put this into our helping hands a little bit tricky. You want to get it so it’s secure, you can put it in the back part actually and then it holds it pretty tight. You don’t want to get loose while you’re soldering his other end. We won’t be using right now, so we have our soldering iron on.
We have our chisel tip here. Let me get some solder tin, the tip just tiny bit just a little drop yeah and then we’re going to put this to the outside of the connector. Then we’re going to wait for it to heat up and then start filling it with the solder, and you want to fill it to about 1/3 of the way up or halfway, which is good so now that we have this somewhat full. Let me keep it on we’re going to take one of our wires.
We’Re going to put it inside of the cup, make sure it’s seated centered and you’re going to let go of the soldering iron and wait for it to dry. You can wipe off your soldering iron on your sponge in the meantime, put it back in the holder. Now you can give it a quick tug to make sure that it’s soldered in place hit. Everything is hot, so watch out, okay and then there we have a solder Don bullet connector, be careful when you first take this off from soldering it because it is still very hot. You don’t want to get anything on the inside of these because that’s where the connector is going. So let me finish doing the rest of these and then we’ll put on the battery you, okay.
So now that we have all the connectors soldered on, let’s go ahead and put some heat-shrink on as well now you’re going to want to cut a piece that covers both the entire connector and also a little bit of the wire. So this is about good you’re. Going to cut all them the same size or there abouts, then you’re going to slide them over the connector. The end of the heat shrink is flush with the end of the connector. So now, once you have all these on, you can use a lighter and we’ll go ahead and shrink the heat shrink, kind of messed up with the lighter in these, you can just wipe off the suit and everything’s fine. So there is these side for the motor and that’s all soldered up so before we solder on the xt60 plug.
Let me show you how to check for the polarity. So you see this little negative sign right here. Well, that’s your negative end and then the plus sign over here is your positive end. Keep those in mind because remember if you plug in the battery backwards, you can fry your electronics. So it’s pretty clear on the connector, which one is which, though so we’re going to start with the negative end: we’re going to put this inside of helping hands.
We’Re going to use the other side to attach our wire and there’s a couple methods that you can use to solder these on, but first I just forgot: you need to put your heat shrink on before you solder on the connector. This is because you can’t get to it afterwards, like the other ones, so just cut a piece that will cover up the actual contact, so you can see it’ll cover up there and also a little bit of the wire for some strain relief. Just slide it.
On put on the alligator clip now the first method that I’m going to show you is to put in the wire into the contact and then put the soldering iron and solder on to that and then solder it that way. The other way is to fill the cup with solder, first heat it up and then slide the wire in. So we’re going to do this one first and on the other side we’ll do the other technique: okay, put on the soldering iron and just take a little wire well to catch.
Go ahead, I’m sorry inside cup and there it starts to go. You don’t want to stop adding solder until you see that until you see that it’s covered the wire and also the inside of the contact, that’s what you’re! Looking for when you solder on the DS, then you can slide your heat shrink over and into the connector and then use your lighter if it would work to shrink it and that’s a pretty good contact. Now we’re going to fill the cup up with solder first and then we’re going to put the wire in.
I personally like the previous method. However, this one does work too, just choose whichever one works for you, the best. This one is going to be a little bit tricky, because I have to switch hands and we’re actually just going to head the wire we’re gon na look with either solder. You district push it in, make sure it’s solid and then now we have the soldered connector. So, as you can see that technique worked just as well now I prefer the other one button choose whichever one you want to use, I’m going to slide this over and like before use a lighter to shrink the heat shrink and that’s it. Your connector is now soldered and you fully soldered your ESC with both sides to connect the motor.
Take the three wires coming off of the motor and connect them to the three wires going to the ESC. It does not matter which wires these plug into, because it’s all AC current, if you spin up the motor and it’s turning the wrong way, take any two of the three wires coming off the ESC in the motor and switch them. This will change the direction now. I know this sounds sketchy, but remember that the three wires gumming off of the motor go to separate coils of wire inside the motor, like we talked about before, just by swapping two wires, that’ll change how power is being put into the coils changing the direction of The motor now, let’s connect the servos, so the two servos that are connected to your ailerons can either go into a Wye splitter and then put into the aileron port of your receiver, or you can plug them directly into the receiver in the aileron and auxiliary ports.
Now this does require a little bit of extra programming on your transmitter, but we’ll cover that only program. The radio in a later episode, the elevator servo plugs into the elevator port on the receiver and then finally, the ESC server lead goes into the throttle port on the receiver. The last physical connection is the battery and you’ll only plug this in when you’re ready to fly or when you want things to move now, let me show you how to bind your transmitter with your receiver. It’S really simple: to find your electronics first make sure your bind plug is plugged into the bind port of your receiver, then make sure your radio is turned off and plug in your electronics. The receiver will start flashing, and now it’s in bind mode. Take your radio and hold down the trainer switch up at the top hold that down power on the radio.
It’S going to say, bind the lights going to turn off on your receiver. Wait for it to start flashing again! Let go of the trainer which and then everything is bound, remove your blind plug unplug, your electronics plug them back in and now it’s bound and that’s it everything’s connected. You should be able to move around the right. Stick on your transmitter and see all the servos move, be careful with your motor and don’t put on your prop until you’re ready to fly.
This is not a toy and it can seriously cut you or even take off a finger if you think about it. Just knowing how to find these components and how to connect them all together allows you to build your own airplane, do whatever you want and have fun next time, I’ll, show you how to print layout and cut all the parts out for the maker trainer as well As how to cover them with the colored packing tape, so I’ll see you, then thanks for watching .