Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “DiResta: Locket Star Key”.
And making a new Starkey, but not just any Starkey, this Starkey is going to be a locket. A friend gave me this button. It’S a vintage button very old and asked me to make it a incorporated into a Starkey. I get all these brass cut-offs from a friend at a recycling plant. He saves me the breast cut-offs that he gets from machine shops.
I guess – and here I jump right in and just machining a pocket, a pocket that I bought interested in and I have my rim phone calipers and checking this. Do one side, reactor Victor, sighs. Now I know – and now I need to take the back out to make sure that the button kicks internally and this button is a very old and it’s packed with paper and I’m using my ice projectile. My all to clear that paper out – and it was very tough – I actually stab myself in the process and finally, and they would be get that out – I didn’t wanted to form the brass.
I wanted to only perform what was going to become garbage and it’s a beautiful, stamping, very thin, so I have to be careful with it and I wanted to just fit snugly in there and it does and so now I know it’s time to take it off, But since I have the position so close to the three jaw Chuck, I can’t really part it off. I think it that close, so I go as deep as I can and that little groove is for the keys later on when they start of the fuse on, and I go is because I found with the parting tool and then I just use a hacksaw and Of course, right when I got to the bottom of the cut it shoots away, that I found it and just clean it in the cut off on the back with the sander and I’m keeping it wet and cool, because if it’s it’s very hot to the touch. My part, and now I need to make some hardware that goes on the locket itself, and this is going to be the little lever. I’M using the feeler saw good thing about jeweler cells.
You can literally make a right turn inside of a piece of brass, that big silver solder melts at a much higher temperature than any of the solder that i’ve ever used before I’m kind of new to silver solder. You just take a little bit of it. You put it right in a joint and then you heat it up and once the solder flows you let it cool, and then we join this basically done.
You could always clean it up since that metal so thin. I was heating up this chunk and letting the heat soak into it, and then you go and I’ll let eleven. Now I have to make a hinge: I’m not very good at working tiny, it’s always been very difficult for me, but there’s one of the challenges in this project and again I’m using silver solder for the first time these last couple of weeks.
So now I’m making my hinge tubes and solder a hold in a position. I run the risk of the solder basically running into the whole thing, but all these as trusting in my ability, so it flowed only on the one piece I needed and now it’s time to make the other parts and because it’s difficult to solder all these things Together, I have the hinge, pin only both of them in line and I’m sitting in that groove that I’ve been. I engrave that little piece of brass is just holding on the him and to keep the other two T’s in place and had a little silver solder leaked into the hinge pin, so I had to heat it up to pull it out. I visit the heat up. The pin itself and get red-hot and pull it back out with the silver solder. The heat is very controllable.
I think in kind of pinpoint what you want to get hot and will get out and you’ll notice how I’m able to control the heat. With these steel blocks, you’ll notice I’m working on top of steel blocks, and Here I am understanding the hinge pin but is digging out the hendrikpasmans. Only one, and now now I’m cutting the keys with a very dull saw blade.
Earlier, in the day, I cut a black screw, if that saw blade and essentially ruined it. There you go, and so here I’m controlling the heat. I’M working on these two steel blocks, they’re very heavy, and they soak two feet right up.
So you’ll notice this soaking the heat up under the hinge where I don’t want to reactivate usana and makers, knocked out of position so by having the key can’t believe it in space right between the opening between the two steel bricks, I’m able to control the heat Right where I want it right next by and I do that for each one of the cookies and rusty pieces of Steel, just kind of holding things in place for me, while I’m working the silver solder is right, notic showing care once it gets hot enough, it Flows, it’s about 1,200 degrees before it flows and again I’m shielding my hinge with that piece of steel up there. So I don’t activate the sonic 20, my key key and then I take it over and clean it. I’M using a brass wire brush and a drill press and the best way to get off the physically left over from the soldering paste, and so far I’ve seen this seen about 50 times in each time. My impulse is to blow away the gusts.
Of course, I can’t and there’s money and I flip the hinge pin in and I’m trying it and now I was able to adjust the flare on the outside of the button so that it snaps in just right and then kind of getting an audible click, which Is what I wanted and I’m making this for a friend and once you saw it right away, she said: can we put a lanyard on it, and so I put a jump ring right there and yeah there. It is a look at jump ring and my first attempt got ta lock it, but definitely I’m excited to make a new one after this this was fun. Thank you. If you liked this video subscribe to our website or send us a comment on Facebook or Twitter be sure to check out our other project, videos or visit us on make zine calm.
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