Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “3D Printed Bionic Claws”.
If you’re into elaborate halloween, costumes or complicated cosplaying, this build is for you, designed by advancer technologies in this weekend, project we’ll show you how to build your own muscle, activated auto-extending wolverine claws to make a set of claws. You’Ll need these materials. You’Ll also need these tools first print or order the 3d printed parts. You can download the files on github and, if you don’t have access to a 3d printer, you can order them from a service like shapeways parts include a two piece case: the claws, a servo, brace and two tiny tabs. If the parts come out rough, you can finish them with a bit of sanding time to wire it up, cut the connector off of the wire harness and solder.
The leads to the arduino. The signal wire goes to digital pin 3. The power wire goes through the raw pin and the ground goes to ground. You can check the wiring by plugging in the battery and checking that the leds on the board light up upload the sweep mod test sketch to the arduino and plug in the servo. If everything is working, when you plug in the battery, the servo should turn back and forth power down the arduino and connect the muscle sensor to the arduino, using a length of servo wire connect, the yellow wire to the sensor’s signal.
Pin the red to the power. Pin and the black wire to the ground, pin you can solder directly or use header pins cut and prepare the other end of the wires and solder them to the arduino. The signal wire goes to pin a3 the red wire to the vcc pin and the black to ground now you’ll test the mywear muscle sensor before uploading, the final sketch to the arduino snap, three new electrodes into the sensor, remove their backing and stick the sensor to Your forearm, the sensor, should be aligned along the forearm muscle, with the reference electrode off to the side power on the sensor by plugging in the battery. The sensor power led should light up. The second led on the board should be unlit when your muscle is relaxed and lit when you’re flexing, if the led doesn’t respond to the muscle activity, properly, check the connections and adjust the electrode placement upload. The final bionic claws sketch to the arduino and you’re ready to test the electronics plug in the servo and the battery flex and relax your forearm muscle and watch the servo respond to your muscles. If things aren’t working at this point, double back through the build steps and make sure everything is correct, now it’s time to assemble the enclosure, fit the enclosure front and back together and drill holes through the tab on the front piece aligned with the holes on the Back piece: once the holes are drilled check the fit with the screws. If needed, a tap can be used to thread the screw holes. The servo brace will then need the same treatment. Adhesive foam on the surfaces which secure the servo will help it stay put when mounted the enclosure will need to be secured to the wrist brace with velcro attach velcro hooks to the underside of both pieces of the enclosure. This will allow for an easy, secure and repositionable connection drill out the end hole on the large servo horn so that it will fit the bolts from the servo linkage attach the horn to the servo and bolt one of the linkages to the horn. Make sure that the claws slide easily in the enclosure then attach the servo linkage to the bracket in the back of the claws using the small 3d printed tabs super glue can be used on the tabs if they won’t stay put on their own.
Finally, it’s time to put it all together, slide the claws into the track and then join the two halves of the enclosure by screwing them together, use velcro tape to mount the battery in the back of the enclosure. Leave it disconnected until you’re ready to use the pause slide, the arduino into the space in front of the battery and arrange the servo and sensor cable so that they run out of the back mount the servo with the servo brace as shown keeping the servo horn. Close to the center line of the enclosure turn on the electronics and flex, your muscle to extend the servo and then turn the system off.
While it’s in this position now slide the claws out so that they are fully extended measure. The distance between the two servo linkages to determine the length needed for the connecting rod, cut a piece of threaded rod to this length and screw it into the linkage on the claws. Then unmount the linkage from the servo arm and screw the linkage to the other end of the threaded rod, reattach the linkage to the servo arm and move the servo through the extension range a few times to make sure everything moves smoothly, and that’s it. It’S ready to wear put on the wrist, brace and muscle sensor, attach the cloth to the brace using the velcro and you’re ready to go plug in the battery to power them on flex, to extend the claws and relax to retract them.
To keep them extended. Simply flex and hold for two seconds then to retract them when you’re done just flex and hold again now some of the parts spec for this build are actually a little expensive, especially the servo. We tried substituting another servo and it worked great, but it was a little bit slow, we’d love to hear your ideas about other parts to use or other ways to make this build a little bit cheaper, be sure to let us know in the comments it would Be ridiculous for us not to mention the amazing wolverine club, build by colin furs. His build is totally awesome and you have to check it out. Ours isn’t nearly as dangerous, but you also don’t need access to a welder or compressed air. The thing that we love about our project, though, is the little muscle activated my wear sensors. We think that these things are going to change the way that you make projects.
We would love to hear your ideas for how to integrate these sensors into cool projects. Be sure to let us know in the comments – and we may even build one of them ourselves. Let’S take a second to actually talk about some of the feedback that we got from the last weekend: project, the hinged sky, tracker. A lot of people said that the mount shouldn’t be epoxied to the metal. I couldn’t agree.
More epoxy is going to be prone to failure over time and a couple screws is way better. In the long run now mike whitenton had an amazingly detailed response regarding the threaded rod. Basically, he said you should cut an arc out of a quarter inch piece of plywood and use that as a form to bend the threaded rod user. Saddam flew actually had an even better idea. Why bend the threaded rod at all instead of bending the threaded rod? Just make the ends pivot, i don’t know why we didn’t think of that in the first place, honestly, it’s super simple. We should have thought of it. Alright, that’s it for this time. Thank you for watching and we’ll see you in the next weekend project.
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