Hi, this is Wayne again with a topic “This Thanos PC Build wasn’t disappointing – Part 2”.
Join the custom cooling revolution with the corsair hydro x series featuring every part you’ll need to make your pc stand out with a gorgeous custom, cooling system, experience, powerful cooling with minimal noise, easy setup and automated control for efficient fan and pump speeds choose from a range Of water blocks for the latest gravis cards, including the NVIDIA GeForce r-tx, 2080 and 2080 TI for more info click, the link below [ Applause, ], [ Applause, ], all right, so we came across our first major snag of the build. Allow me to explain real quick. So after installing the first 360 mil rad in the front, I came to realize that the rest of the case is not gon na have enough space for the second to 80 mil rad. So this is my original plan. I wanted to put 2 140 millimeter fans on the bottom, just like that. If you use as intake for the bottom 80, mil red, as you guys can see, there is no coherence, there’s no space to put that on there and there’s no space to put it on the top.
As you guys can see, they’re mounting holes don’t align with a bracket up top because this radiator is too far, and I guess this case is not as big as it seems. The ideal radiator configuration would be a 80 mil right in the front. That way, you have plenty of clearance to add another 80 ml rad, either on the top or bottom or you can go to 240 ml rad.
But the issue with that is, if I do go with a 80 mil rad and install the fans, then, as you guys, can see, there’s gon na be an empty space either on the top or, if I move it on the top. Let’S give the empty space on the bottom, since it only supports two fans and that’s not gon na look good in this case. You know it comes standard with 3 120 millimeter fans and I do want to occupy all three slots. So that is why I went with a 360 ml red, but I’ve been sitting here for the past 30 minutes, trying to figure out the best solution to this, and the only option that I have is to go with a 240 ml rad on the bottom.
So what I’m gon na do is put two fans for intake and then put the 240 red on top just like that, and then use the 140 millimeter fans as exhaust on the top of the case like that yeah kind of disappointed. But you know it is what it is. Okay, so where to begin, I do want to say that the overall build went fairly smooth for the most part, aside from those two minor hiccups, the radiator clearance being one of them and in almost destroying my entire PC, because I forgot to plug up two holes. While filling the reservoir twice in case, you guys haven’t noticed, I did go soft tubing this time around just to change things up. Since my last build was hardline and I got ta say guys, there’s something about Softline tubing that I really enjoy other than the convenience of it. I just love the curves that I’m able to do with soft tubing that I just can’t with hardline. I also do my best not to overlap any of the tubing that way it’s all visible, for example the run on the bottom over here I made it purposely go down a little bit that way it’s not covering the tubing on the back. Also check out this.
Pretty cool run, I did from the GPU to the pump now these two fittings were too close together for me to connect directly, so I ended up thinking what’s another way of connecting the GPU to the pump and also making it a little cool so that I Thought about doing a full, 180 degree curve or loop, which I think ended up looking awesome, so I currently have seven fans in this case. I have five as in take. We have three for the front three 60ml rad and two for the bottom rad, which also gives up a pretty nice glowing effect, and then we have two exhaust fans up top. Also, I’m really glad I added this RGB distro plate.
Without it, the PC kind of looked a bit empty like it was missing something now, since most of the parts in here are coarser and they’re all connected via IQ software, I can change the lighting fairly easily, with just a few clicks. So if I get bored with black and purple, I can change the lighting to green and kind of make it a joker themed PC instead. But then I got over that really quickly and I realized you know what I want to do with a no steam PC. I do have majority of the colors already anyway, it’s black and purple, but the thing is danos has an Infinity Gauntlet with six Infinity gems, so I had to find some way to incorporate that in the build without messing around with most of the parts – and this Is what I came up with is often disappointing.
So since the gauntlet has this goldish color to it and the Infinity stones have this shiny jewel effect, I thought the Royal ramp sticks from g.skill would be the perfect fit now. Obviously, the motherboard has only four RAM slots, so there was no way I could replicate all six stones. So instead I just picked the colors that weren’t already in the build – and I got ta say it looks pretty damn cool all right now. Let’S talk about the most important part of this PC the performance because, like I said in the beginning of this video, the purpose of this build was to increase my overall efficiency and productivity, so I the squeeze as much performance as I could out of it. Let’S take a look at temps first, before the overclock, the 3900 X idles, around 42 degrees and peaks at 74 degrees on load using rise and master. I was able to push the first six cores to four point: three: five gigahertz and the other six to 4.25 gigahertz. At one point, four to five volts. The overclock gave me some pretty nice performance gains on to the bench r20.
I jumped from 65 66 to 77 23, that’s a 15 % gain and the multi thread test for time spy. I scored 1070 to higher on the CPU score after overclocking and finally for rendering I was able to shave out 50 seconds from the total export time from a 5-minute 4k project. Every little bit helps the 3900 X after overclocking now idles around 45 degrees and peaks. At 90 degrees during full load, however, it is stable and I’m ok with those high temps in exchange for better performance. Of course, I didn’t want to leave the GPU alone, so I did overclock that as well. I was able to add an extra one hundred seventy-five megahertz offset on the boost clock and seven hundred fifty megahertz on the memory pushing the total boost of the gtx 980ti over 2,000 megahertz, and with this overclock I scored 928 points more on the graphic test for X, pipe and for gaming, I got 13 fps more on heav’n benchmark and 15 fps more on Rainbow six siege.
So overall, I am very, very, very, very, very, very happy with the overall aesthetics and, more importantly, the performance of this PC. I’Ve actually decided that once the 3950 X comes out, I’m not going to do a separate, build. I’M just gon na swap a CPU in here and possibly convert this into a hard-line, build with gold fittings and solid purple coolant, which I think will look way more.
Closer to a Thanos themed PC, but that is up to you guys. If you want to see a follow-up video, I’m thinking bout, doing this offline. I don’t think it’s worthy of a second video, but if this video gets 10,000 likes, I will make it happen.
I do have a bunch of other water cool projects coming up, including a water cooled mini ITX, build which I’m super excited about, and I do have a few budget bills coming up with a build guide. So you guys are interested in that type of content. Make sure to subscribe with notifications enabled I’ll love your faces, as always I’ll see you in the next one.
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